There's a fungus among us ...

Thanksgiving is just around the corner, and mushrooms are about to take center stage in the gravy.

There are eons of history about mushrooms as food.  There is a parallel history about mushrooms as medicine.  There is a third parallel history about the hallucinogenic properties of “magic mushrooms.”  While the hallucinogenic properties of mushrooms could be much more exciting, this blog is about food so we will restrain ourselves to their food and medicinal properties.

Mushrooms as food probably have been foraged since pre-historic times; there is evidence of them in early settlements in Europe.  The Greeks believed eating mushrooms made warriors strong.  We know that Aristotle (384-322 BC) wrote about fungi, unfortunately, his works on botany have been lost.  The early Romans considered mushrooms “the food of the Gods.” Pliny the Elder (AD 23/24-79) wrote about mushrooms and Galen of Pergamon (AD129-216) described wild mushroom foraging in his writings.  Bertelsen, C., Mushroom: A Global History (Reaktion Books, 2013).

The first reference to mushrooms in America appears in The Virginia House-Wife, an 1824 cookbook and housekeeping manual by Mary Randolph.  Randolph presented a southern, specifically Virginian style of cooking, including recipes for dozens of vegetables and aromatic herbs.  An American cooking staple, Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom soup, was invented in the 1930s.

What makes a mushroom a mushroom?  The most common mushrooms have threadlike roots and a cap.  These threads, sometimes called “gills,” give mushrooms their taste and texture.  As air passes through the gills moisture evaporates leaving a rich texture and taste.  Scientists have identified thousands of species of mushrooms (over 38,000 by some estimates).  Luckily for our kitchens and pantries, only about two dozen are widely accepted for use as food.  Valverde, M., e al., “Edible mushrooms: improving human health and promoting quality life,” Int. J. Microbiol 2015:376387 (2015).  https://doi.org/10.1155/2015/376387

Mushrooms are often an under-appreciated food.  They are low in calories, salt and fat, contain protein and modest amounts of fiber, and a variety of nutrients, vitamins, and minerals.  Mushrooms also contain non-nutritive plant substances … polysaccharides, indoles, polyphenols, and carotenoids … that have been shown to have an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cancer effects.  For chefs, mushrooms create savory rich flavors called umami, considered by many to be a fifth basic taste along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.  The mushroom umami taste comes from glutamates and nucleotides typically associated with meats and other high-protein foods.  Cheung, P., “The nutritional and health benefits of mushrooms,” Nutrition Bulletin 35(4):292-299 (Dec. 2010).  https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-3010.2010.01859.x;  Kumar, K., et al., “Edible Mushrooms: A Comprehensive Review on Bioactive Compounds with Health Benefits and Processing Aspects,” Foods 10(12):2996 (Dec. 4, 2021).  https://doi.org/10.3390/foods10122996; Bains, A., et al., “Bioactives from Mushroom: Health Attributes and Food Industry Applications,” Materials (Basel) 14(24):7640 (Dec. 11, 2021).  https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14247640

What are the health benefits of mushrooms?  The antioxidant content of mushrooms may help prevent various types of cancer, lung, prostate, and breast.  The dietary fiber in mushrooms may help manage Type 2 diabetes.  A cup of sliced, raw mushrooms has two to three times the recommended daily dietary guidelines for fiber.  The fiber, potassium, and vitamin C in mushrooms contribute to cardiovascular health.  There is evidence that mushrooms have protective effects on mild cognitive impairment (MCI) in older adults.  Mushroom polysaccharides stimulate the growth of healthy bacteria in the gut.  They do not break down with stomach acid, pass through the stomach unchanged, and reach the colon to encourage bacteria growth.  Mushrooms support a healthy immune system.

National Cancer Institute, “Antioxidants and Cancer Prevention.”  https://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/diet/antioxidants-fact-sheet;  McRae, M. “Dietary Fiber Intake and Type 2 Diabetes Mellitus: An Umbrella Review of Meta-analyses,” J. Chiropr. Med. 17(1):44-53 (Mar. 2018).  https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcm.2017.11.002;  Krittanawong, C., et al., “Mushroom Consumption and Cardiovascular Health: A Systematic Review,” Am. J. Med. 134(5):637-642.e2 (May 2021).  https://doi.org/10.1016/j.amjmed.2020.10.035;  Nurk, E., et al., “Cognitive performance among the elderly in relation to the intake of plant foods.  The Hordaland Health Study,” Brit. J. Nutri. 104(8):1190-201 (Oct. 2020).  https://doi.org/10.1017/S0007114510001807;  Feng, L., et al.,  “The Association Between Mushroom Consumption and Mild Cognitive Impairment: A Community-Based Cross-Sectional Study in Singapore,”  J. Alzheimer’s Disease68(10):197 – 203 (Jan. 1, 2019).  https://doi.org/10.3233/JAD-180959; Chou, W., et al., “The applications of polysaccharides from various mushroom wastes as prebiotics in different systems,” J. Food Sci. 78(7):M1041-8 (Jul. 2013).  https://doi.org/10.1111/1750-3841.12160;  Guggenheim, A., et al., “Immune Modulation From Five Major Mushrooms: Application to Integrative Oncology,” Integr. Med. (Encinitas) 13(1):32-44 (Feb. 2014).

The US produced about 844 billion pounds of mushrooms in 2019.  In 2022 Americans ate about 3.65 pounds of mushrooms per year.  Shahbandeh, M., “U.S. per capita consumption of fresh mushrooms 2010-2022,” Statista (May 9, 2023).  https://www.statista.com/statistics/257314/per-capita-consumption-of-fresh-mushrooms-in-the-us/

The white button mushroom (Agaricus bisporus), also known as cepes, is the most common mushroom in the US.  It is the mildest-tasting mushroom that easily adapts to the flavors of any savory or spicy dish.  It may be eaten raw or cooked.  The white color was the result of a chance mutation; they were brown when first cultivated in the late 1800s.

Cremini is the name given to the original brown version of the button mushroom (Agaricus bisporus).  Furthermore, they are just the immature form of the portabella mushroom, sometimes called the “baby bella.”  They are dark and firm, and have a taste more complex than a white button mushroom but not as nutty as a mature portabella.  Like the white button mushroom, they are widely used in spicy and savory dishes.

The portobello (Agaricus bisporus), also called portabella or portabello, is the mature form of the well-known cremini mushroom, and obviously related to the white button.  Allowed to reach full size, it loses much of its moisture and gains texture and more flavorful, earthy notes.  The texture and taste lead to it being used similarly to and as a replacement for meat.

Porcini mushrooms (Boletus edulis), also known as cep, penny bun, or porcino mushrooms, are commonly used in Italian and French cuisine.  They have a distinctive taste some people compare to sourdough bread, slightly creamy and nutty.  Porcinis are almost exclusively harvested from the wild.  Fresh porcini mushrooms are a gourmet item and mostly reserved for chefs.  Dried porcinis are readily available in most grocery stores.  To use, soak them in hot water for 10 to 15 minutes, then cook as normal.

Shiitakes (Lentinula edodes) are well-known mushrooms that have long been cultivated and used in China and other East Asian countries; it grows primarily on decomposing hardwood trees is .  The “Shii” in Shiitake is the Japanese name for the most common host-tree, the Japanese Chinquapin (Castanopsis cuspidate).  The “take” means mushroom.  These large, brown mushrooms have an umami flavor and, when cooked, develop a pleasing, velvety texture. The stems are often discarded due to their tougher consistency, but, when cooked longer than the caps, develop a nice chewy texture.

Chanterelle is the common name for several different species of mushrooms in the Cantharellus, Gomphus, Polyozellus, and Craterellus families.  They are commonly found in white, yellow, red, or orange colors, and they are close enough in appearance and taste that the name chanterelle is just used interchangeably for all of them.  Chanterelles are funnel shaped and look somewhat like an oyster mushroom in that they have very pronounced “gills” that run down into the stem.  The word “chanterelle” comes from the Greek word “kantharos,” which means cup, a reference to the mushroom’s shape.

Chanterelle mushrooms are highly sought after for their unique flavor, something between peppery and fruity.  Cooking them in fat, such as butter, brings out their rich flavor and they make a great addition to sauces, soups, and even souffles; they go particularly well with eggs.  Many species of chanterelles have a pleasant and fruity smell, similar to apricots.  Some chefs consider chanterelles a delicacy on par with truffles.

Oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus), also known as pearl oyster mushrooms, are one of the most common types of cultivated mushrooms in the world.  They are considered a prize ingredient in many dishes and sauces for their delicate texture and mild, savory flavor with hints of anise or bitter almond.  Oyster mushrooms are especially popular in Japanese, Chinese, and Korean cuisines. 

The largest species of oyster mushroom, the king oyster mushroom (Pleurotus eryngii) has a wide base and inverted cap.  It is also known as the king trumpet mushroom or the French horn mushroom.  The flesh has a very firm meaty texture compared to regular oyster mushrooms, and, despite having little taste in its raw form, develops a wonderful umami flavor when cooked.  High in protein and a source of B vitamins, phosphorous, potassium, selenium, and copper, it has also been shown to have immune system stimulating benefits, cholesterol-lowering effects, and can even be helpful in fighting intestinal parasites.

Morels (Morchella esculenta) are some of the most sought-after wild mushrooms by chefs, commercial hunters, and morel lovers.  Aside from truffles, morels are probably the mushrooms with the biggest reputation and highest price tags.  You have to go into the forests in spring to find morels; we hunt them regularly.  Morel lovers typically have secret “morel spots” to which they return year after year to find morels.  Just like black truffles, they are usually reserved for the fanciest of meals and enjoyed alongside other quality ingredients and fine wines.

Some morels are short and stout, while others are long; they can be as big as your hand, or as small as a fingertip. They can range in color from grey to blonde.  Morels have a nutty, earthy flavor, and firm meaty texture but they’re still tender.

Enoki mushrooms (Flammulina filiformis), also called enoke or enokitake, are a staple in Asian cuisine.  They come in large clusters of tiny mushrooms with very long stems and small caps.  The cultivated variety of Enoki mushrooms tend to be light in color with long stems while the wild types are darker and shorter.  In either case, they are a great addition to sauces, stir-fries and soups where their naturally slimy texture is more complimentary to the dish.  They are a staple in ramen and udon.

The strangely-shaped, ribbony Maitake mushroom (Grifola frondose), also called hen-of-the-woods, is another staple in Asian cooking.  The name comes from the Japanese word meaning “dancing mushroom.”  The flavor of the maitake is deeply earthy and rich, making it a great choice for meals with complex flavors that might overpower the taste of milder mushrooms.  They are too tough to eat once they reach a larger size, but they are used for their medicinal properties. Maitake mushrooms have been shown to boost the immune systems.  They also have a hypoglycemic effect that can help lower blood sugar and manage diabetes, and help with high cholesterol.

Lion’s mane mushrooms (Hericium erinaceus), which develop long teeth-like gills resembling a mane, have a stringy meat texture and a sweet savory flavor that in culinary use is compared to lobster or crab meat.  Medicinally, they are celebrated for containing a long list of phytochemicals that many believe to have healing properties.  Lion’s mane is purported to boost concentration and mood, keep the brain healthy, support the immune system, and decrease inflammation in the body.

While completely edible though not often used in cuisine, the reishi mushroom (Lingzhi, Ganoderma sichuanense, also known Ganoderma lingzhi) is often considered the gold standard when it comes to medicinal mushrooms.  Long used in Chinese medicine, therein it is believed to help with memory, open up energy channels, and even allow for immortal life.  There is evidence reishi can help treat fatigue, lower cholesterol, blood pressure and inflammation, and treat lower urinary tract symptoms.  Reishi mushroom is most often consumed as a supplement in powder form.

The egg-shaped gray straw mushrooms (Volvariella volvacea) are named for the material in which they are cultivated.  Their umami flavor is mild, delicate, and slightly nutty in their younger stages, which allows them to blend well with other ingredients without dominating the flavor of a dish.  As they mature, the flavor becomes stronger and the texture firmer.  Regardless of their stage of development, they are not as pungent or earthy as some mushrooms, making them a versatile complement to different dishes.

Whew, fifteen mushrooms described, only 37,985 to go.  Luckily, the number of edible mushrooms commonly used for food is less than two dozen.  Edible mushrooms, regardless of type, add flavor to cuisine, sometimes subtle, other times dramatic.  They all also medicinal benefits to overall health.  Add mushrooms to your favorite dishes and see how they change in texture and taste.  A recipe for wild mushroom gravy may be found below.

How do the fabulously revered and expensive truffles fit into this taxonomy?  Mushrooms are the above-ground fruiting body, or sporophore, of the underground mycelium, fungus.  Truffles, on the other hand, are a fungus that grow underground attached to the roots of trees.  Truffes do not have a stem and look like a brown lumpy potato.  Mushrooms have a mild earthy flavor; truffles have a strong flavor and aroma.  Truffles have short growing seasons, and are extremely difficult to find.  Truffle hunters often have specially-trained dogs to find truffles; others use pigs.  Pigs have an exceptional sense of smell, and are able to identify truffles as deep as three feet underground.

Because of their rarity and top price, sometimes thousands of dollars per pound, truffes are typically reserved for restaurant dishes and served sparingly as fresh shavings or infused into sauces.  They are often paired with rich cheese and meat dishes.  Chez Bruno in Lorgues, Provence, France, is often called “the most amazing truffle restaurant in the world.”

There are several different types of truffles, including:

Black Truffles:  Black truffles are the most common type of truffle and are found in many parts of the world.  They are highly aromatic, with a strong earthy flavor and a slightly bitter taste. Black truffles are usually harvested between December and March.  In France, the Périgord region is known for producing high-quality black truffles

White Truffles:  White truffles are rare and highly prized, with a delicate aroma and a subtle flavor.  They are found mainly in the Piedmont region of Italy, and are harvested between September and December.

Summer Truffles:  Summer truffles are milder in flavor than black truffles, with a more subtle aroma.  They are harvested between May and August and are often used in salads, pasta dishes, and sauces.

Burgundy Truffles:  Burgundy truffles are found mainly in France and have a strong aroma and earthy flavor.  They are harvested between September and December.

Oregon Truffles:  Oregon truffles are found in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States and have a mild, nutty flavor.  They are both black and white, and harvested between November and February.

Each region where truffles grow has its own unique soil and climate conditions that are necessary for the truffles to thrive and, like wine, deliver each’s unique flavors.

Truffles are often paired with full-bodied, aromatic wines such as Barolo, Chianti, and Pinot Noir. These wines have a strong and complex flavor profile that complements the earthy and musky taste of truffles. White wines such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc can also be paired with truffles, particularly white truffles, as they have a delicate flavor that does not overpower the truffle.

If you have not watched “Fantastic Fungi” on NetFlix, you are missing a cinema- graphic experience.  Fantastic Fungi is a 2019 American documentary film that combines time-lapse cinematography, CGI, and interviews in an overview of the biology, environmental roles, and various types and uses of fungi.

Wild Mushroom Gravy

8 tablespoons unsalted butter (4 oz. = 1 stick)

2 tablespoons dried porcini mushrooms

2 ½ tablespoons boiling water

3 pounds mushrooms (one type or mushroom or a mixture of white button, cremini, portobello, chanterelle, shiitake, cremini, oyster), sliced ¼ inch thick

1 cup chopped shallots (about 3 medium)

1 cup chopped celery

1 cup organic all-purpose flour

Kosher Salt

Black pepper (preferably ground from the mill)

Turkey drippings or/and stock (turkey or chicken) … to make a total of 6 cups

Extras:  ½ cup Sherry, cayenne pepper

Place the porcini mushrooms in a small bowl and cover with boiling water.  Let stand until softened, 10-15 minutes.  Drain and save the liquid.  Rinse the mushrooms.

Melt butter in a heavy Dutch oven.  Turn heat to medium-low heat and warm until the butter melts and stops foaming.  Add mushrooms and cook until they are browned and the butter is clear … 1 to 1 ½ hours.  Remove mushrooms and set aside.  There should be about 1 cup of butter left in the Dutch oven.

Whisk flour into butter, and cook on low heat until the roux turns mahogany brown, about 20 minutes.

If you are using drippings, set a strainer over a medium bowl.  Pour turkey drippings from the roasting pan into the strainer and press on solids to remove as much liquid as possible.  Skim fat off the liquid.  Whisk the drippings liquid and the reserved porcini water into the roux in the Dutch oven until smooth.  How much liquid you get from the drippings will vary.  Add stock as needed to get the desired consistency in the roux.

If you are using stock, whisk into roux in Dutch oven along with the reserved porcini water until smooth.

Add extras, if using.

Bring gravy to a gently boil, reduce heat, and simmer until gravy reaches the desired consistency (more or less watery).  20 to 30 minutes.

Stir in mushrooms, onion, and celery.  Season to tase with salt and black pepper.  Heat through and enjoy.